Get ready to rethink everything you know about hand-pulled noodles—because Union Square is about to get a game-changing addition. Bold flavors, multicultural twists, and a chef who’s breaking all the rules—this isn’t your average noodle joint. But here’s where it gets controversial: is this the future of Chinese cuisine, or a departure from tradition? Let’s dive in.
On January 20, 2026, married culinary duo Lane Li and Chris Wang—the brains behind Park Slope’s beloved Noodle Lane—are unveiling Rulin, their newest venture at 15 East 13th Street. This isn’t just another noodle spot; it’s a celebration of innovation, blending Lanzhou, Cantonese, and Sichuan flavors with a New York twist. Think soy sauce duck canapés, cumin-dusted short ribs grilled over binchotan charcoal, and hand-pulled noodles topped with everything from pickled mustard greens to chile herb sauces. And this is the part most people miss: this menu isn’t about nostalgia for immigrant recipes—it’s a bold statement from a chef who’s redefining what Chinese food can be in the 21st century.
Lane Li’s journey is as fascinating as her food. After immigrating from Guangdong at age six, she grew up in Flatbush, mastering Cantonese home cooking in her family’s kitchen. While working in finance for over a decade, she secretly honed her skills at the French Culinary Institute and drew inspiration from now-legendary spots like Guan Fu (RIP) and Xi’an Famous Foods. In 2011, she launched Noodle Lane as a Smorgasburg vendor, but it wasn’t until 2023 that she fully embraced her culinary passion, opening the Park Slope location. Her bestsellers? Crowd-pleasers like sesame chicken, but Rulin is her canvas for experimentation. “I feel more free,” she says. “I’m gonna make what I want.”
The menu is a masterclass in balance, divided into five sections: starters, skewers (sold by the stick), noodle and rice entrees, and sides. Take the duck canapé ($19), for example—a masterpiece layering Cantonese soy sauce duck with house-pickled daikon, crispy roasted rice, and a drizzle of duck jus. Or the short rib noodles ($35), where tender braised beef meets hand-pulled noodles in a chile herb sauce infused with angelica root and Sichuan peppercorns. It’s comfort food, but elevated.
And then there’s the binchotan charcoal grilling, a technique Li adopted out of necessity (no gas on-site) but now swears by. It gives dishes like chicken thighs, squid, and shiitake mushrooms a smoky, crispy edge while keeping them juicy inside. These grilled goodies appear as skewers ($5-$11) or in rice dishes ($25-$35), alongside a razor clam salad ($29) that’s sure to spark debate: is it worth the price tag?
The space itself, designed by Studio Jari, is a study in soft minimalism—natural wood, light marble, and curved lines creating a vibe that’s both modern and inviting. Rulin will open Tuesday to Sunday for dinner until 10 p.m., with reservations available on Resy.
But here’s the question we can’t stop thinking about: Is Rulin the future of Chinese cuisine in America, or a one-off experiment? Does it honor tradition, or does it stray too far? Let us know in the comments—we’re all ears. One thing’s for sure: Union Square will never look at hand-pulled noodles the same way again.
